The Complete Guide To Rome’s Trastevere Neighborhood

Experiencing the local life of Rome is just as important as taking in the major attractions. And there’s no better way to do it than by spending some time wandering through Rome’s best neighborhoods. Centrally located, lively Trastevere Rome is just a short walk across the Tiber river from Campo di Fiori and Piazza Venezia.

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Trastevere Neighborhood Guide

You may be surprised by how much there is to see and do outside of Rome’s main attractions. To get a taste of what it’s like to live like a local in Rome, explore the Trastevere neighborhood’s history, sights, and restaurants. In this Rome neighborhood guide, we’ll cover:

• History of Trastevere in Rome
• Where Is Trastevere in Rome?
• Things To Do in Trastevere
• Bars and Restaurants in Trastevere

History of Trastevere in Rome

Trastevere in Rome was once inhabited largely by fishermen and sailors due to its close proximity to the Tiber. The name Trastevere comes from two Italian words that mean “across the Tiber (river).” That is because the neighborhood, as you will see in the map below, is just across the Tiber from the rest of the city.

With the Imperial age, money came into the district with many important figures like Julius Caesar choosing to build their Villas in the area. It is this mix of wealth combined with architecture from the Middle Ages that gives Trastevere its irresistible charm. With its appealing old-world vibes, cobbled streets filled with clusters of shops, bars, and restaurants, and old buildings with exposed woodwork, Trastevere is a fascinating place to explore.

Where Is Trastevere in Rome

This map highlights Trastevere in red. North of the neighborhood, you can see Vatican City, which is only a 20-minute walk away. Looking East you can see how close Trastevere is to the Colosseum and the historical center of Rome—just a 15-minute walk away or three short stops on Tram number 8 from Piazza Venezia.

If you’re staying near Termini Station, a 15-minute ride on the H bus will bring you right into Trastevere at the Piazza Belli bus stop. Watch our video on using the Roman bus system to help you get up to speed with local transport in Rome.

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Things To Do in Trastevere, Rome

Trastevere is home to some of the best hidden gems of Rome. From historical churches and fresh food markets to some of the city’s coolest bars and restaurants. There is so much to see and do in Trastevere, but here we’ll cover the highlights in this incredible Rome neighborhood. For the most comprehensive and up-to-date list of things to do in Trastevere, check out the best things to do in Trastevere.

Santa Maria in Trastevere

Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere is the main square and is a must-see attraction as you’re strolling around the area’s beautiful cobbled backstreets. Home to one of the oldest churches in Rome and a primary hangout in the evening to watch street performers and entertainers, there’s no doubt you’ll fall in love with this square the moment you set foot in it.

Within the Piazza, you’ll find the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere. The church as you see it now mostly dates back to the 12th century, with its tall campanile (bell tower) and embellished facade with golden mosaics. The church sits on its original fourth-century foundation and its interior is definitely something worth seeing, whether you’re religious or not.

Address: Piazza Sant Maria in Trastevere | Hours: 7:30 am – 8 pm

Piazza di San Cosimato: Fresh Market

For a taste of local food and life, walk south of Piazza Sant Maria and you’ll find a fresh food market in Piazza di San Cosimato. The market has been open since 900 and many of the local vendors you find there today are descendants of the first vendors.

Today, it is less than abundant but still rich in quality foods and great prices. It’s a great place to pick up some cheese—always ask what they recommend.

Less touristy and more reasonably priced than Campo de’ Fiori, if you’re staying in accommodation that allows you to cook or are just looking to enjoy some good Italian produce on the go, this market is a hidden gem in Rome. It’s not to be missed—especially because you’ll be buying your produce in a place that was once walled off, flooded, and used for naval battles. Pretty cool!

Address: Piazza di San Cosimato | Hours: Mon – Sat, 6 am – 1:30 pm

Piazza Trilussa and The Drunken Poet

If you’re walking to Trastevere from Rome’s historical center, you’ll pass over one of the city’s favorite bridges—Ponte Sisto. Go over this bridge in the evenings and you’ll find musicians and street performers entertaining passers-by. Once you reach Trastevere on the other side, you’ll walk into Piazza Trilussa.

This square is named after the Roman Poet Trilussa, a local Trasteverino who found inspiration for his poetry in his home neighborhood—and at the bottom of a liquor bottle.

The Piazza is a favorite hang-out at night with locals and students as the performers extend from Ponte Sisto into the piazza, entertaining those sitting on the steps of the fountain that dominates the square.

Address: Piazza Trilussa

Villa Farnesina

This impressive villa sits on the Trastevere bank of the river Tiber. Inside you’ll find works of art from the likes of Raphael and outside it has a beautiful garden, perfect for sitting and relaxing on a sunny spring day in Rome. Tickets can be purchased on-site.

Address: Via della Lungara 230 | Price: €3-6 | Hours: 9 am – 2pm

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Bars and Restaurants in Trastevere, Rome 

Trastevere not only has lots of great things to see, but it is also one of our favorite foodie neighborhoods in Rome. We have a complete list of the best restaurants in Trastevere, but here we’ll cover some top picks.

With lots of places to eat and drink, day and night, you won’t be short of places to stop and grab a slice of pizza, a gelato, or a glass of vino Rosso. Check out these great restaurants or explore more deeply with our local Trastevere food tour.

Freni e Frizioni

Who should go here? Cocktail lovers and bohemians that are happy to drink a craft cocktail standing or on uncomfortable seating.

Open in the evenings, Freni e Frizioni (breaks and clutches) features an old car garage turned into a bar. You must have an aperitivo when visiting this local watering hole—we can assure you it’s one of the best in town.

Cocktails are plentiful and the food is to die for! But remember, aperitivo isn’t dinner, it’s simply a way of kick-starting your appetite for dinner. So, although the food is great, don’t eat too much because you won’t want to miss out on any of the other restaurants in Trastevere.

Address: Via del Politeama 4/6

Tastevere KmZero

Who should go here? Small groups looking for organic and creative small plates.

Owned by local farmers, you can guarantee everything sold in this place, from its chilli jam to its wine, is made from local produce. You might even see one of the farmers bringing in freshly made ricotta—so fresh it’s still warm! We also recommend visiting this place for an aperitivo.

You’ll be served a glass of wine accompanied by meats, cheeses, pestos, and bread. Yum! What’s more, they get their bread from the bakery around the corner, La Renella.

Address: Vicolo de’ Cinque 30

Miraggio Ristorante Pizzeria

Who should go here? Adventurous eaters who are ok with relaxed service.

Local alert! This is one of my favorite restaurants in Trastevere. It’s just on the outskirts, so it’s never fully embraced the tourist traffic of other restaurants.

Great food comes at a price and I am not talking about price tags. Expect service to be what I call “Roman”. Don’t ask many questions and be ready to order when they are. Don’t even think about asking to swap out ingredients—a no-no in all of Italy.

This restaurant has outdoor seating. When I go here, I eat the Paccheri allo Scoglio. Larger than large smooth rigatoni like pasta with shellfish in a dry red sauce.

Address: Via della Lungara 16 

Pizzeria Ai Marmi

Who should go here? Relaxed eaters looking for a quick but authentic budget meal surrounded by locals.

This is another more famous pizzeria in Trastevere, but as contrarians we always try to point people to more local spots. This pizzeria is on a busy road in Trastevere so the view is nice, but not Roman Holiday nice. This is more of a pizza joint and you go there for great pizza, table wine, or ideally Italian beer at a super low price. It also has outdoor seating.

I remember I showed up here one night when they opened around 6:30 or 7 pm. Nobody was there, but they were preparing pizza after pizza to be thrown in the oven. All the sudden, the place filled up inside and out in an instant, and the pizzas started going into their wood oven. Great pizza and great prices. Grab some appetizers too. Try Fried Zucchini Flowers or something else that you wouldn’t normally get at home.

Address: Viale Trastevere 53 – 59

Vin Allegro

Who should go here? Couples or adults looking for a nice glass of wine in a relaxing setting.

A favorite entoeca (wine bar) in Trastevere, you’ll find more locals here than tourists here. When you’re given the long wine list, the reason why is clear. There are so many local and foreign wines to choose from, you won’t be at a loss for delicious options.

Address: Piazza Giuditta Tavani Arquati 114

Pimm’s Good

Who should go here? Social people looking for an international atmosphere for afternoon coffee or drinks and maybe a meal at night.

Another of the hidden gems of Trastevere is the bar Pimm’s Good. The food is decent, the drinks are works of art, and the atmosphere is perfect. The barmen here are cocktail craftsmen, shaking or stirring you up something unique every time.

Sit outside from spring to summer and watch Trastevere life pass you by. In winter or on rainy days, sit at the bar for cocktail hour and watch the artists at work or just grab a table inside and indulge in one of the many delicious dishes they serve up throughout the day.

Address: Via di Santa Dorotea 8

Le Mani in Pasta

Who should go here? Lovers of fish and Roman dishes looking for a fun but upscale-ish meal.

If you’re looking to have lunch or even dinner in Trastevere, this is the place. On the same side of Trastevere as the Fish Market, you’ll find The Roman Guy’s all-time favorite restaurant: Le Mani in Pasta (the hands in the pasta). They serve fish and pasta of unbeatable quality. Trust us, if there is one place you can’t miss in Trastevere, it’s this one.

The staff like to say “leave your diet at the door,” because if you eat here, you’ll be eating well! Everyone who works here will make you feel at home, and be sure to ask their opinions on what you should eat if you find yourself spoiled for choice when looking at the menu.

Book well in advance, and our top tip is to request to be seated upstairs in the non-smoking area. It may be a good idea to have someone that speaks Italian reserve for you—like us if you take our tours!

Address: Via dei Genovesi 37

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